Peter Gillman Libri

A revealing and complete biography of doomed hero George Mallory, which includes previously unpublished letters and family papers schovat popis

The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams - one German, the other British/American - aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British/American team and intended to make a swift dash for the summit. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching on was a young journalist reporting on the climb for the Daily Telegraph, Peter Gillman - for the Eiger is the most public of mountains, where tourists can observe the life-and-death struggles on the face from telescopes at the nearby hotels. Almost 50 years on, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face of the Eiger, and assesses their effect on those who took part. One man died and others were permanently injured through frostbite. For Chris Bonington, it opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain's foremost mountaineer. It was an epic ascent with profound consequences, redolent of a golden age of adventure and mountaineering.

In February 1966, two teams planned the first direct ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps. The race was on and triumph or tragedy awaited. Award-winning writer Peter Gillman and eminent climber Dougal Haston were both there, and Eiger Direct is their account of the epic attempt.

The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams - one German, the other British/American - aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British/American team and intended to make a swift dash for the summit. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching on was a young journalist reporting on the climb for the Daily Telegraph, Peter Gillman - for the Eiger is the most public of mountains, where tourists can observe the life-and-death struggles on the face from telescopes at the nearby hotels. Almost 50 years on, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face of the Eiger, and assesses their effect on those who took part. One man died and others were permanently injured through frostbite. For Chris Bonington, it opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain's foremost mountaineer. It was an epic ascent with profound consequences, redolent of a golden age of adventure and mountaineering.

Über die nächsten fünf Wochen spielte sich in der Wand ein aussergewöhnliches Drama ab. Beide Teams kämpften mit verheerendem Wetter, Ausrüstungs- und Lebensmittelknappheit, Verletzungen und Erkrankungen. Anfangs folgten sie unterschiedlichen Routen, doch je höher sie in der Wand aufstiegen, desto mehr arbeiteten sie zusammen. Ende März gipfelte die Durchsteigung in einer nie zuvor dagewesenen Mischung aus Tragödie und Triumph. Fast 50 Jahre später schildern Peter & Leni Gillman in „Eiger extrem“ auf packende Weise die damaligen Ereignisse. Zum ersten Mal vereinigt das Buch die Sichtweisen beider Teams und erzählt die bislang unbekannte vollständige Geschichte der epischen letzten Tage der Durchsteigung - ein Überlebenskampf und Grenzgang, der in der Alpingeschichte seinesgleichen sucht.

Berg, München, 1994. 207 S. mit zahlr. Fotos, Pbd.U: Quart